The villages of Darmasllah - Carmelit Terminal

Dramsala was a destination I dreamed about for a very long time, following many stories from various people who told me about the magic of the place.

Indeed, it did not disappoint and provided days of wonderful views, Tibetan peace and stunning nature. This is an area where you will find everything: magical views of mountains, animals, peaceful and happy people, excellent Western and Indian food, yoga and meditation, and full of workshops.

By the way – in Darmasalah (or Darmashalah as the Indians are sometimes called) itself there is not much to do, this is the main town from which you climb to the cooler villages: McLeod Ganj, Bhagsu Nag and Dharamkot and its name is also Kangra County Airport. I arrived in Darmsallah with my mother on a flight from Delhi, after a week and a half in Rishikesh which you are invited to read here. We booked the tickets a long time in advance and they cost $ 80 toward it, but booking that week raises the price to $ 100 and more.

Map of Darmasala Villages

It’s hard to understand the area map without getting to it, but I’ll try anyway. To get here one must first pass through the town of Darmasala and exit from it to the main road to the villages which opens in the ring of McLeod Ganj. At the bottom of the ring is the Dalai Lama Temple and at the top is the main intersection of McLeod that leads to Dharamkot and Bhagsu Nag. A further drive from the junction will take you to the village of Nadi. From Dharamkot, there is a road to the Gallo Temple, from where you can take a day trip to the Triund Observation, a walk to the Dharamkot water falls or a walk to the village of Nadi.

It takes about twenty minutes to walk from McLeod to Bhagsu, taking the footpath to Dharamkot from McLeod junction takes around forty minutes. From Dharamkot to Bhagsu there is a pleasant and car-free road that takes about fifteen minutes to descend and a little more uphill.

When is the best season to visit Dharamshala?

Dharamshala’s season begins with the thawing of snow in early May. Before that, the roads to it are sometimes blocked. Its best time is in June, so all the treks are possible to get in and there is not much rain. The months of July and August are characterized by many monsoon rains (wet but not cold). September October is also a great time to visit, until the harsh winter returns in November December.

What to see in the Dharamshala area?

Dalai Lama Complex and Tibetan Museum

The border dispute around the Tibet region is a long and sad conflict, involving China, India and even Taiwan. To date, the conflict has not been resolved. Following the brutal invasion of the Chinese by the Tibet province and the murder of hundreds of thousands of Tibetans, in 1959 the 14th Dalai Lama fled Tibet and founded an expatriate government in Dramsala. Tibet’s expatriate government is continuing its struggle for independence and sovereignty on the ground, although it does not appear likely to end in future generations due to the dispersion of the Tibetan population in Asia and the Chinese and Indian refusal to give them a state.

A visit to the museum will teach you about the history of this affable people and a tour of the vast temple of the Dalai Lama will introduce you to the tranquil atmosphere of McLeod. Throughout the village you will find excellent Tibetan restaurants and industrious Tibetan merchants. Check in advance for museum opening hours, the temple is open all day and free of charge.

If you are lucky and the Dalai Lama is in the compound and not on a world tour, you can meet him or listen to his lecture only if pre-registered (check his website).

Walking in nature to the Dharamkot Falls

Gallo temple is a temple without distinction and became a crossroads little trip around the port, which means that probably pass it the way you experience the many stalls set up next to him. Getting there is possible from a deranged foot or on the “road” which only Indian drivers can drive. The taxi ride for four people cost us 400 Rs.

The hike to the falls does not require a guide because it passes through a marked path and you will always see an inscription on the falls, or rather the coffee stall and the makeshift snacks set up there. On the road that takes between 45 minutes and an hour you will enjoy a beautiful forest environment, mountain views and even river immersion if appropriate. do not miss!

The workshops in Bhagsu and Dharamkot

There are a huge variety of workshops here: Indian cooking, knitting, macrame, jewelery, sewing, playing, yoga, massage, juggling and other things. There are a huge amount of choices, just go for the pick!

Of course, it is best to start with an experience class before committing to additional classes, to test the chemistry with the teacher and feel if you like it. We did a macrame class at one of the jewelry stores and met the lovely Rita Kapoor, a cook who has been teaching all Israelis in Bhagsu for twenty years how to make home Indian food.

Trip to the viewpoint Triund

The most famous viewpoint in the area is Triund, and you will see quantities of travel agencies that take trips there as well as signage there. The truth is, because it is very busy and we chose to go on a longer trek and gave it up. To get to Triund, take a cab early in the morning from Darmacote to the Gallo Temple and begin a three-hour walk to the summit and return the same way. You can stay in tents upstairs to watch the sunrise as well as continue another hike to the snowy pass, preferably with a guide.

The trek to Kareri lake

A great three-day trek, during which you spend one night at Guest House in Curry Village and one night in a tent on the edge of Lake Curry. The views I saw here were breathtaking, and the quiet of the moment we walked away from the hustle and bustle of Darmasallah and the villages was worth every moment. We organized the trek with the help of Raj’s agency.

Nadi Village

The village of Nadi has an amazing view of the whole area and even a cute little lake called Del Lake. There is nothing to worry about coming here especially if it is not on your way to some trek, because it is relatively boring and the restaurants in it are expensive compared to what you will get in Bagasu. The road to the village passes by the Macloud Road or a pleasant walk in the forest one hour from the Gallo Temple.

Bhagsu cake

Did you come to Baggsu? Do not give up a taste of this famous cake. Rumor has it that the most delicious cake is in the refrigerators of the supermarket on the main tourist street, although you can also find it in most of the area’s cafes (price per slice: Rs 35-40).

A day trip to the sites around the Dramsala

There are many beautiful sites to see also the valley at the foot of Dharamsala, and most of them within driving distance of two hours from the city. Another option we didn’t take was a long 5 hour drive towards Armitzer for the Golden Temple because we didn’t want to stay there for the night and return. We picked with Agent Raj three others and he arranged for us a taxi driver at a cost of Rs 3200 per day. We paid for the sites separately.

Kangra Fort

About three-quarters of an hour’s drive from Dramsala is the Kangra Fort, the largest Himalayan fort and oldest in India (according to Wikipedia and signage on the site). Its location is particularly strategic: surrounded by a river on three sides and on a hillside. Over the years, he exchanged many hands and dynasties, including the Mughal empire that also built the Taj Mahal. Much of his treasures have been robbed and the various influences of the government are evident in him. In 1846 it passed to the British until it was destroyed by a severe earthquake in 1905. Today the fortress is rebuilt and constitutes a tourist site only. Walk around among the impressive gates, the inner buildings and the impressive viewpoints from it to the river and the surrounding forest.

Entrance fee: Rs 200. You can add a fee for recorded instruction.

Norbulinka Tibetan Temple

This aesthetic site is really close to Dramsala and is a pleasant Tibetan art center for visiting. Apart from an excellent Tibetan restaurant and a large temple, the complex also has a guest house and drawing and sculpture halls. Entrance fee: Rs 100.

Tenzin Palmo Women's: Monastery Dongyu Gatsal Ling Nunnert

This monastery is not so much on the tourist map, and we came across it in the book “Cave in the Snow” we read about an impressive woman named Tenzin Palmo, a British who became a senior Tibetan nun and even spent 12 years living in a cave near Manly. After completing her years of celibacy, she decided to help women move forward in the Buddhist world and raised funds to establish a women’s convent and boarding houses. The complex she has built is nice and pleasant to visit and during some of the year she herself is there and can be met (expect a serious queue).

Map of Dharamshala

Where do you sleep?

We started from a hotel called Ram Yoga House in McLeod Ganj, which received hundreds of positive reviews on booking and was indeed clean and comfortable, with an amazing view but a little less central location. There are yoga classes every morning on his roof, and the food there is excellent. After returning from the trek we had already settled on our own (although we booked a “hotel” for Bhagsu, the reservation was not received) and we moved to a favorite Israeli guest house called “SkyPai” which was relatively low-level to Ram Yoga despite its central location. His restaurant is excellent and the wifi is always strong.

The villages of Darmasllah: when India meets Tibet